One of the things that fascinates me about stone jewellery is the impeccable craftsmanship required to create it. This process cannot be automated: it requires years of practice, precise movements and a deep understanding of the nature of materials.

Many people don’t realise that most diamonds are over a billion years old. Formed in the bowels of the Earth, they slowly rose to the surface to one day become part of jewellery works of art. However, when it comes to jewellery or watches, we rarely give it a second thought. Gemstones and metals alone do not make a piece a masterpiece – their value is revealed through skilful integration into the design. It is important not just to add value through diamonds, but to turn them into an integral part of a harmonious and unique composition.

As a creator of exclusive exotic leather accessories, I have a genuine admiration for other crafts such as jewellery and watchmaking. I am inspired by their impeccable precision, attention to detail and pursuit of perfection. After all, as in leatherwork, it’s not just the materials that matter here, but the craftsmanship that transforms them into works of art.
In this article I will tell you about the creation of a unique watch ‘Fleur-de-Lis’ – a project of a talented jeweller Sergey Sofronov, with whom I have been cooperating for more than ten years. I will share the details of making handmade straps, which have become an integral part of his creations.

Project idea

In his work, Sergei favours vintage movements of the highest calibre from Patek Philippe, true masterpieces of engineering. These complex and graceful systems, as if alive, continue to beat in the rhythm of time. The idea of revealing their beauty, breathing new life into them and making the mechanics visible was the starting point for the creation of this unique timepiece.

The skeletonised movement, the open dial and the transparent sapphire crystal case back allow you to look into the ‘soul’ of the watch, to see its intricate and precise workings. It is like unravelling a mystery, touching the process of measuring time. Time is infinite. It can be measured, but it cannot be stopped. A watch is not just an instrument, but a symbol of this eternal flow.

The open dial, in the form of a delicate stylised lily (Fleur-de-Lis) set with diamonds, is not just a decorative element. This historical symbol of nobility and elegance gives the watch an aristocratic feel and emphasises its exclusivity.

When Sergei shared with me the idea of creating a Fleur-de-Lis watch, I immediately realised that it would be something special. And so this unique project was born.

The first version of the watch

The case of the watch is made of 750 white gold. The work on its creation and inlaying is the work of Sergei Sofronov (2021). The case is encrusted with 180 diamonds totalling 2.7 carats:

• 92 stones in the lily centrepiece,
• 64 stones in the bezel,
• 24 stones in the case lugs.

The sapphire crystal reveals the skeletonised lily dial and the complex Patek Philippe movement.

The second version of the watch

Striving for perfection is the hallmark of a true craftsman. This is what prompted Sergei Sofronov to create an updated version of the Fleur-de-Lis watch. After receiving feedback from connoisseurs and analysing his experience, he made changes to make the model even more refined and unique.

The skeletonised Patek Philippe movement has been given an even finer treatment and the dial has been enriched with:

• 48 diamonds around the perimeter of the minute markings,
• 16 black diamonds to enhance the expression and lustre.

The Fleur-de-Lis was thus presented in a new, even more sophisticated form.

Watch straps

For this watch, I have created black alligator leather straps that perfectly match its style and emphasise its uniqueness. I chose the highest quality leather, which is not only strong and durable, but also has a unique texture that gives it a special charm. Working on the straps took several days of painstaking manual labour.
The finished watch turned out to be stunning: it is a marvellous combination of history and modernity, luxury and restraint. The vintage Patek Philippe movement, encased in a modern case and complemented by an alligator strap, is a true work of art.

The result

Both versions of the Fleur-de-Lis are the epitome of fine craftsmanship and impeccable taste. They emphasise their owner’s individuality and status, becoming not just a piece of jewellery, but a true symbol of time and elegance.

Do you want to see more joint works with Sergei Sofronov? Click on the Sergei Sofronov tag below and enjoy other projects!