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As a finalisation of the Shell Cordovan topic (for those interested and like to understand the details). Cordovan is actually the subcutaneous layer of muscle, which in horses is called the panniculus carnosus. Because cordovan is muscle and not skin,

Cordovan is a specially treated membrane that originally lies between the epidermis and dermis of the horsehide. The finished cordovan looks like leather; it is quite thick, very hard-wearing, scratch-resistant and expensive.